Montenegro Highlights

Tiny, yet beautiful, Montenegro boasts a constellation of ancient towns along its meandering coast.  Budva, one of the oldest settlements in The Balkans, may be the brightest star.  The town has several beaches but the charming Stari Grad–Old Town, with its winding alleys and quaint squares–impresses visitors the most.  Budva can be an excellent base from which to explore some of Montenegro’s other gems.  A scenic drive along the Budva Riviera takes you to nearby Milocer and the charming old town-on-the-rock Sveti Stefan, a picturesque islet that has welcomed foreign dignitaries and Hollywood celebrities alike.  Milocer was built as a hideaway for the wealthy royal family during the 19th century and looks like something taken out of a fairytale.  Robert De Niro opened Nobu there in July, 2016.

Travel the very steep slopes–with several hairpin turns–while catching breathtaking views of the bay below, through the Lovcen Mountains, where you will discover delicious culinary treats and well-preserved folk architecture.  The Village of Njegusi is known for tasty smoked ham, awesome farmer’s cheese and wine–all made in the village.

 

 

 

 

The former royal capital of Cetinje, from the 15th century, is a city that once welcomed diplomats from all over Europe.  Tour the interesting Museum of King Nikola.

 

More of Montenegro’s natural beauty can be experienced on a scenic drive through Lovcen National Park.

 

The Adriatic fjord of Kotor, one of Europe’s most beautiful bays, is where the coastal town of Kotor, one of Montenegro’s most well preserved medieval towns, is found.  Walled in by the Republic of Venice centuries ago, Kotor is still surrounded by the town bulwarks–more than 3 miles of walls around the town, walls above the town and walls around the hill and fortress on top of the hill.  The 12th century Cathedral of St. Tryphon, with its exotic Romanesque architecture, is a sight to see.

 

 

 

Magnificent Maine

We spent 3 weeks driving the coast, from Kittery Point in the south to the northern Acadia National Park–did nothing inland.  Here some of the highlights we enjoyed.

At Kittery Point, just a short drive off Route 1, we had lunch at the Chauncy Creek Lobster Pier (on a tidal river), which serves only lobster and Malpeque oysters and cherrystones from Prince Edward Island–outdoor seating only and bring whatever else you want, including drinks!

 

 

York is a very historic and quaint village.  At 350 years old, it was America’s first chartered city.  You’ll find many 17th and 18th century structures, and the Old Gaol Museum is thought to be the oldest remaining public building in America.  Route 1 enters York Harbor and York Beach.  Eventually, a lane leads out over Cape Neddick toward picturesque Nubble Light–the most photographed lighthouse in the U.S.

Ogunquit is a cool little town, with lots of artists and craftsmen.  Adjoining Perkins Cove has a couple of good restaurants–MC Perkins Cove and Five-O.  A walk across New England’s only foot drawbridge provides a wonderful view of boats in the harbor, then walk the nearby Marginal Way,  a  1.5 mile cliff walk.

Old Orchard Beach is a kitschy old beach town , where families have come for generations.  With a 7-mile strip of beach, a cute boardwalk with a ferris wheel, and good New York-style pizza at Rocco’s, there is something for everyone!  After Lindburg’s flight, there were lots of flights from this beach trying to copy his transatlantic trip, and there used to be carriage races on the sand.

 

In Scarborough, we rented a canoe at the Audubon Society’s Scarborough Marsh Nature Center and paddled out on streams meandering through a salt marsh.  Next, we had a terrific lunch and drinks on the porch of the lovely Black Point Inn on the Prouts Neck Peninsula, overlooking the water.  Afterward, we walked across the lawn and took the waterside path to Winslow Homer’s studio, now a National Historic Landmark; this is the same path he walked daily to get his subjects to paint!  By making prior arrangements with the Portland Museum of Art, you can tour his studio at the end of the path–it’s very popular and books up quickly!

Portland is a fun town.   For the best view in town, we walked the Eastern Promenade, which overlooks the quirky 1807 wooden observatory atop Munjoy Hill.  At Maine’s Pantry on Commercial Street, picked up Maine maple syrup and mustard from Raye’s, the country’s last stone ground mustard mill.  On Park Street, below Spring, we saw a row of 14 brick townhouses from the 1830s, all with ironwork balconies.  The Portland Public Market is a huge international food court.  The Portland Head Light Station at Fort Williams Park was built in 1790 and is one of the oldest lighthouses in the U.S.–a nice place to have a picnic. Stroudwater, two miles west of the Old Port on Congress Street, is a colonial village from the 1700s; it was originally a mill site, then a canal depot.  We took the mailboat run to several islands, which was pretty cool–they deliver all kinds of stuff, in addition to mail, including lumber to build things.  You can bike (rentals available) or hike on Peaks Island, a 20 minute ferry trip, or Long Island, which has a protected white sand cove at Singing Sands Beach.  Favorite eateries in Portland were Zapoteca, Boda Thai, the Front Room, and Bonobo for pizza.

Don’t miss the LL Bean store in Freeport–open 24/7.  Lobster rolls abound in this state–both mayo style and butter style–but the best, in my opinion, is at Red’s Eats in Wiscasset–outdoor seating only and usually has a line.  For a quirky stop, check out the scrap sculptures by Nathan Nicholls at Recycle Art Sculptors Garden in Waldeboro–very unusual and offbeat; although Nathan Nicholls is no longer alive, his family has left the 5-acre sculpture garden for all to see.

 

 

 

Camden is the home to several windjammers. Searsport has the EXCELLENT Penobscot Marine Museum.

Acadia National Park borders Bar Harbor on 3 sides.  A horse-drawn carriage tour or wagon ride is a great way to see the 40 miles of roads and 17 picturesque stone bridges, along with lots of park history.

 

 

 

 

 

Then, drive to Thunder Hole–at high tide, the surf crashes into a natural inlet, sending water up to 40 feet high, with a roar!  Sand Beach is a popular gathering spot.  At 1530 feet, Cadillac Mountain is the highest peak around.  Hike the Beach Mountain Path on the west side of the island; from there, you have a view of Long Pond or Great Pond, and, at the peak, you have a stunning vista of Blue Hill and Cranberry Isles.  Have some yummy popovers with strawberry jam at the Jordan Pond House, overlooking the Bubble Mountains  and Jordan Pond.

The remote Isle Hauet, on the Schoodic Peninsula, is 6 miles long and 2 miles wide with 65 year round residents and less crowded paths, along with several inns.

Coastal Maine is such a fun and scenic place to visit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Texas Hill Country Getaway

Llano is located on the clear spring-fed Llano River, about an hour west of Austin.  Back in the day, it was the last train stop for settlers heading west from Llano, where they faced hostile Indian territory and the rough west Texas terrain.

We stayed at The Badu House; the B&B was originally built in 1891 as the First National Bank of Llano.  The bank became defunct, and French native N.J. Badu purchased the building for his home.  Now, the upstairs is a B&B, while the downstairs is a wine pub and restaurant.  The wine pub features about 120 wines, including many from Texas wineries, and about 100 beers, including draft and bottled, domestic, craft and imported beers, ales and ciders.  In the upstairs B&B, we met with the chef each evening to discuss what we wanted for breakfast the next day; the food was delicious!  There is a great patio outside where live music is played many nights; we heard locals Allan Reed and Patrick Russell, whose toe-tapping music we really enjoyed.

Inks Lake State Park is nearby.  We swam at Devil’s Waterhole, a  wonderful swimming hole surrounded by huge boulders—we were too wimpy to jump from the 3 or 4 story high cliffs—but some people were not intimidated.  We had lunch at Chris’ Landing in the park, where the sandwiches and buns are house made and really tasty!  Afterward, we rented kayaks on the lake.

Our next stop was nearby Marble Falls, where we had dinner on the patio of On The Rocks, a great little Italian place high on a cliff overlooking Lake LBJ.

This area is centrally located in Texas so it is very easily reached from Austin and San Antonio.  Although it is about 4 1/2 hours from Dallas, it is an easy and scenic trip and a great weekend getaway from the city!

 

 

Summertime in Vail

 

Although Vail, Colorado is a popular destination for skiing, summer is also a terrific time to visit.  It is a pretty town made for walking, with lots of restaurants with decks for enjoying the drop-dead gorgeous Colorado landscape, colorful flowers and shops; cars are not allowed in Vail Village.  Warm days and cool nights lure you outside for a variety of activities.

Take a scenic ride on the Eagle Bahn Gondola or Gondola One up 10,000 feet to the top of Vail Mountain.  At the top, you can fly through the air with the greatest of ease  on a fast and fun zipline.  Anyone can participate in this adrenaline-charged, yet easy, thrill ride and see mountain scenery from a totally unique perspective.  Or take the Forest Flyer, where you fly through the forest on a raised alpine coaster, winding 3,400 feet down Vail Mountain.

Biking is very popular in the Vail Valley.  The Vail Bike Path offers a paved path from East Vail to West Vail, and additional paths can take you to the neighboring town of Edwards.  Both Vail and Beaver Creek have exceptional mountain bike trails.  You and your bike can hitch a ride to the top of the mountain on a gondola for a thrilling bike ride down.

The lovely Betty Ford Gardens, the world’s highest altitude alpine garden, showcases a collection of high elevation plants with perennial beds, rock gardens and waterfalls.

Vail Valley has an array of public and private 18-hole golf courses.  The natural beauty, diversity of the courses, and 8,000 foot elevation makes Vail a special place to golf.  You’ll be surprised at how far your ball will fly in a high altitude!

There are lots of scenic hiking trails surrounding the Vail Valley and on the peaks above Vail Village and Beaver Creek.  Hiking is a great way to discover the area’s flora, fauna and wildlife.

Vail Valley is home to some of the best fly fishing in the country.  Both wade fishing and float fishing are popular.

Landlocked Colorado may surprise you with with its rushing rivers and mountain basins.  Vail Valley is situated between the Colorado, Arkansas and Eagle Rivers, affording some of he best whitewater rafting in the world–from a white-knuckle experience to a lazy day on the river.  Due to the abundance of lakes, rivers and creeks, the options for water sports are numerous, including kayaking, canoeing and stand up paddleboarding.  Nearby Piney River Ranch is a scenic spot for these activities.

The best clay tennis courts in Colorado are found at the Vail Tennis Center, although you might find it difficult to concentrate on your game with the very pretty Gore Range all around.  Plus there are lots of nearby options for horseback riding.

Nearby spots for easy day trips away from Vail include Glenwood Springs –with the world’s largest hot springs pool surrounded by mountains; Breckinridge–with 70 independently owned restaurants;  Leadville–a great old mining town; and Aspen–known as a haven for celebrities and culture vultures.

Note: The Little Diner, in Lionshead, has the best breakfast in Vail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gorgeous Greek Vista

 

Perhaps the most photographed of all the Greek islands is Santorini, with its whitewashed cliff-top villages against the azure waters.

The traditional village of Oia, the island’s northernmost town, is a picture-perfect labyrinth of narrow, twisting cobblestone alleyways, shops, cafes and domed churches, perched atop a craggy cliff–all beautiful examples of cycladic architecture.  It’s a haven for artists and artisans.

The crescent-shaped island lies above a stunning caldera.  This natural wonder is the result of what was probably the biggest volcanic eruption in history; some believe it caused the disappearance of Atlantis.  Take in the raw beauty of Santorini’s volcanic landscape with a visit to both the black and red sand beaches.

Today, the landscape is full of vineyards, fig trees, caves and churches.  The vineyard of Santorini is the original one planted after the eruption of the volcano, which makes it one of the oldest in Europe.  The Santos Winery has locally produced wine in a one of a kind setting with a magnificent view.  The wine of Santorini is strong and tasty.

In the center of the island is the pedestrian only cliff-top village of Fira, the capital, perched on the edge of an impressive cliff, 260 meters high.  The only ways to reach it from the harbor are on foot up stone steps, by donkey–up the same stone steps–or by cable car.

Da Costa Restaurant is situated in the heart of Fira and offers breath-taking views of the volcano and the caldera.    The restaurant serves traditional Greek food, and the staff is very friendly.  There’s no better spot for a magnificent sunset!

Archaeologists discovered the ancient village of Akrotiri, the oldest and best preserved bronze age village in Europe.  It’s located on the south end of the island

Santorini is must see when you are in the Greek isles.

 

 

Colorful Costa Rica

Our trip to Costa Rica was awesome!  Our house in Guanacaste was just steps from the beach.  Rode horses through the jungle, across rivers, and along the beaches and cliffs.

Mango trees, palm trees with coconuts and sugar cane are everywhere, as well as all sorts of critters.

Our backyard had howler monkeys, iguanas, all sorts of lizards, and gorgeous birds and flowers, including a resident hummingbird that fed on the necter of the birds of paradise outside my bedroom window.

 

As you might imagine, it is quite rustic.  Farm animals are herded along the roads, many of which are dirt. I will never again (at least for a week or so) complain about the state of Dallas’ streets after driving on Costa Rica’s terrible, rutted dirt roads –especially after a rainfall –that, at times, forced us to drive across rivers–not even kidding!  Where we live, the motto is “Turn around, don’t drown”!  If you adhered to that course of action, you wouldn’t get far in this country.  It was a good thing the rental car company provided us with a 4-wheel drive vehicle!

 

Took a riverboat through Palo Verde National Park, where we saw, up close and personal, crocs, capuchin monkeys, iguanas, scarlet macaws, several types of herons and other spectacular birds, as well as long nose bats that line themselves up on tree trunks to resemble a snake to discourage predators.

 

 

 

Visited the tiny village of Guaitil, famous throughout Central America for its pre-Columbian Chorotega style pottery.  Native Chorotegas are one of the main indigenous cultures in Costa Rica, and the entire town of Guaitil is dedicated to the pottery trade, using clay from the area.

 

 

Did 13 zip lines across 5 miles–the first run was 1/2 mile long and so high–my first time, and it was  thrilling!  Took a boat ride into the Pacific and swam with Ridley turtles–too cool–and saw lots of dolphins that swam with our boat.

 

 

Chilled and hung out at gorgeous beaches.

 

 

 

Had lunch at a treehouse overlooking the ocean–Tree Tops Inn.

 

 

 

 

Lola’s on the Beach, with your toes in the sand,  was a terrific spot to have a bite and drinks while watching surfers.

 

The local rum and beer made for nice afternoon happy hours.  We will be back!

 

Gorgeous Gorge

Watkins Glen State Park, located in Watkins Glen, New York, is the most famous of the Finger Lakes State Parks.  Over thousands of years, glaciers and streams carved the gorge and nearby eleven Finger Lakes.

Within 2 miles, the glen’s stream descends 400 feet past 200-foot cliffs and 19 waterfalls.  It is simply gorgeous!

Along the gorge is a series of stone steps — 800 of them — and archways.  Walking from bottom to top takes about 1 1/2 hours.  It’s relatively easy since the steps are in short bursts; the most difficult is the final hill.  The upper part of the park is open woodland.  Rim trails overlook the gorge.

Because it is so scenic, the park can get very crowded.  We walked the gorge in the morning and only saw a few other hikers.

 

 

The town of Watkins Glen is quaint and pretty.  Nearby, we kayaked on Canandaigua Lake and visited various wineries on Seneca Lake.

Note:

1)For anyone who doesn’t want to walk, a bus will transport you from the parking lot at the bottom to the top of the gorge; the bus will take you back to the bottom, as well, should you choose not to make the return walk.

2)There is a small parking fee for your vehicle.

 

Cajun Sites & Bites

South Louisiana is akin to a foreign country–the French language and culture are strong and widespread.  And eating really well is at the heart of the culture!

The river town of Natchitoches dates to 1714, making it the oldest permanent settlement in the Louisiana Purchase.  The Cane River is lined with several plantations, and downtown looks a little like New Orleans’ French Quarter.  Lovely & historic St. Augustine Catholic Church is the center of Creole life in the area.  Don’t miss the famous Natchitoches Meat Pie or Crawfish Pie, a turnover filled with ground beef, pork and onion or crawfish, at Lasyone’s Meat Pies–lauded by publications as diverse as Bon Appetit, the New York Times, and Gun & Garden Magazine.

Further south, we made Lafayette our home base for five days of dining on all things Cajun and seafood.  Cajun cooking is the rustic cousin  to Creole cuisine.  Gulf seafood, wild game, spicy peppers, onions, celery and bell peppers are key ingredients, along with dark roux, smoked sausages, and freshwater crawfish.  At the Blue Dog Cafe, loved the appetizer feast of blue crab stuffed mushrooms, grilled shrimp cocktail, blue crab cakes, and duck quesadillas.  The crab bisque was also delicious.  The walls of the restaurant are lined with a private collection of artwork by renowned artist George Rodrigue, the creator of the iconic Blue Dog.  T-Coons is the best breakfast spot in town–crawfish omelettes and biscuits top the list!  Poupart’s is the authentic French bakery next door that has traditional French pastries and breads–no doughnuts at this bakery!  For your doughnut fix, you can get beignets (French doughnuts) at T-Coons.  Walk-ons Bistreaux Bar is your typical sports bar, Cajun style with very good food; the Boom Boom Shrimp Poboy  was overstuffed with meaty, spicy shrimp on crusty bread.  The family who runs Johnson’s Boucaniere has been smoking meat and making boudin blanc (white)–sausage stuffed with ground pork, rice, and all the right spices–for 80 years, and it shows in the tasty food!  Outdoor deck seating only is available at this wooden, barn-like structure, where excellent music is played over the sound system.  Be sure to visit Vermilionville, which explores the living history of the Acadian, Native American and Creole cultures.  The lovely Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist is the oldest church in the area, and a 5-century old oak sits beside it.  For history buffs, the Acadian Cultural Center is a wonderful museum on the Acadians’ tragic history and the colorful lifestyle they created, as a result, in Louisiana, i.e., the crawfish, rice, peppers, okra, pork and fish cuisine; the rhythmic French dialect; the extended family life; and the sweeping waltzes, with a hint of backbeat, played on fiddles and accordions.  And don’t forget dessert at the Borden’s Ice Cream Shoppe, their last freestanding scooped ice cream shop in the world.

 

In nearby Henderson, take an airboat ride through the Atchafalaya Basin, America’s greatest river swamp, from McGee’s Landing.  Afterwards, .lunch at Pat’s Fisherman’s Wharf for a crawfish or seafood platter or gumbo, while overlooking the bayou.

Tabasco pepper sauce has been made on Avery Island for 125 years.  The Tabasco factory is a terrific place to visit, detailing the processing cycle from pepper seedling to bottles.  Avery Island is a salt dome that extends 8 miles beneath the earth’s surface.  Above the dome is a beautiful sanctuary of flora and fauna, the Jungle Gardens.  Among other plants, gorgeous camellias and azaleas abound.  Wildlife ranges from alligators to snowy egrets to bobcats.

The Grand Derangement was the forced removal by the British of the Acadian people from the present day Canadian Maritime provinces of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, & Prince Edward Island.  From 1755 – 1764, the British deported 11,500 of  14,100 Acadians to the Thirteen Colonies, Britain and France, from where many migrated to Louisiana.  There is a museum dedicated to Acadian history and culture on the banks of the beautiful Bayou Teche in St. Martinville, where you can see pirogues (wooden swamp boats) gliding by.  Longfellow penned Evangeline, a famous story about the plight of two lovers separated by the deportation.

Nearby Breaux Bridge has the delightful Joie de Vivre Cafe, where good food is served, staff is so friendly, and joyful Cajun tunes are played by children and adults.

Fezzo’s in Crowley, the rice capital of the world, serves all kinds of wonderful Cajun specialties but the crawfish bisque is outstanding.  Be sure to pick up some fresh and hot cracklins–salty pork skins–almost anywhere.  And last, but certainly not least, you must go to Hawk’s for boiled crawfish–the season is roughly February  to May.

 

For a USA location with a foreign accent, south Louisiana is magnifique!

Terrific Walks in and around London

London is such a great city to walk in!  For an initial feel, walk the paths near the serpentine lake in Hyde Park or take a rowboat.  Walk from Hyde Park to Harrod’s, a very nice large store with wonderful food halls on the lower level, stopping at Ennismore Arms for a pub lunch–a real hideaway tucked on a quiet street.

Or take the tube to Waterloo Station, cross the Waterloo Bridge and follow the Victoria Embankment (riverside walk) to Parliament/Big Ben, then cross St. James Park.  Charles I walked to his execution here, and Princess Di’s funeral passed near here.  End at Buckingham Palace and watch the ceremonial changing of the guard.  Then visit the very interesting Churchill’s Museum and Cabinet War Rooms.

 

 

A great way to spend a day is a walk through Southwark.  Follow signs to the Millennium Bridge, pausing at the north end of the bridge for a view of St. Paul’s Cathedral (at some point, visit this super crowded cathedral for a climb to the Whispering Gallery/365 ft high). Pass the Tate Museum–free entry, except for special exhibitions.  Pass the Globe Theater–first thatched roof allowed since the  Great Fire of London; April through October is the performance season.  Continue to stroll east along the Thames to the Dickensian Clink Street, the famed prison, before zigzagging to Winchester Walk for a peek in The Rake,the pub voted London’s best for its 100+ encyclopedic bottled beers.  Continue down the block to Southwark Cathedral, London’s 2nd best Gothic building, behind Westminster Abbey; a stained glass window commemorates Shakespeare, whose brother was buried here in 1607.  In addition, John Harvard (university benefactor) was baptized here.  Onward, to Borough Market  for food stall grazing.  Nearby Neal’s Yard Dairy  is great for wonderful cheeses and Konditor Patisserie for delicious orange lavender slab cake.  At 9a St. Thomas Street, you will find the old Operating Theater Museum, a 19th century operating room that pre-dated anesthetic and antiseptic surgery–not for the faint hearted.  Stop by 500 year old George Inn for a pint of its namesake ale or Anchor Pub.  Head toward the Thames for Hays Galleria, skipping the kitschy London Dungeon.  Tea clippers once crowded this former wharf lined with Victorian warehouses, now home to bistros and stores.   Traverse the Galleria to join joggers and roller bladers  on the Thames Path.  Just past egg-shaped City Hall lies Potters Fields Park, the perfect spot for views of Tower Bridge.  With luck, you might see the arms parting to make way for tall ships!

 

Head to Picadilly Circus to Fortnum & Mason, London’s oldest department store.  After shopping, watch the clock on the outside of the building on the hour, when Mr. Fortnum and Mr. Mason come out and nod at each other.  Pack a picnic basket with goodies from the bottom floor market.  Stop by nearby Lilly White for shopping.

While in London, don’t forget to visit the Houses of Parliament; Westminster Abbey, where all official functions happen, including weddings, funerals and coronations; the London Eye; Tower of London, with its famous Beefeater guards; Trafalgar Square; and Tower Bridge, which houses a terrific museum on the construction of the bridge.  Covent Garden was once a medieval garden, then a Victorian market and now has market stalls, street performers, shops & cafes.  The British Museum, National Gallery, and Museum of London are all quite nice.

 

 

The area surrounding London has some not-to-be missed places!

Take the tube’s Northern Line and disembark at Chalk Farm Road.  The Camden Lock Market, by the canal, is  a great place to find quirky crafts.  The nearby Camden Stables Market sells wonderful alternative fashions.  Walk along the footpath lining Regent’s Canal or take a boat ride or sit along the lock to enjoy a beer or hot chocolate while people watching.  The Bucks Head has excellent food and brews.

 

 

Take the tube to Tower Hill.  Connect with Docklands Light Rail (DLR) at the Tower Gateway Station across the street (near the Tower of London).  Take the light rail to Island Gardens, then walk thru the foot tunnel beneath the Thames to Greenwich.  You will emerge next to the Cutty Sark, a beautiful tea clipper.  Don’t miss the National Maritime Museum/Royal Observatory to check out the prime meridian and Harrison’s four clocks.  See the splendor of Painted Hall at the former Royal Naval College and the gravity-defying tulip staircase in the 17th century queen’s house.  Lunch on awesome food at the 150 year old Trafalgar Tavern on the waterfront.

Catch the train from Victoria Station to Canterbury.  Visit the impressive cathedral.  The Canterbury Tales Museum is kitschy but pretty entertaining!  There is a pleasant rowboat ride down the small river/canal in town

 

 

Hop the tube to Kew, then take a 5-minute walk to reach the Royal Botanic Gardens–300 acres and 15 miles of walking paths.  The giant glass house has lots of blooming things, and the treetop walk is a great way to view the area from above.  Dine near the station at “The Glass House” or in the station’s pub.

Brighton makes a fun day trip.  The 53-minute train leaves twice an hour.  Wander along the seafront to the Brighton Pier.  Traverse “the lanes”, a collection of small side streets with lots of quirky shops and many places to get good, non-chain restaurant food and drink.

 

 

Either take the train back to London’s Paddington Station or head straight to Oxford.  Skip the tourist info at the train station and walk directly to the Oxford Tourist Info Center–200 yards down St. Aldate’s Street from Carfax, the main intersection.  Take the 2 hour university tour, or pick up a self-guided walking tour map (10 pence), or take one of the excellent guided walking tours (the stupendous option we chose).  The Oxford Botanic Garden is very pretty and on the banks of a scenic river.  See the Stone Tower at the Church of St. Michael @ Northgate, from Saxon times.  Peruse the shopping stalls at Covered Market (at Cornmarket @ High), from the 13th century.  There are several good restaurants, and we had Lebanese.

Take the evening train to Bath.  Approximately 70 miles from Oxford, or 120 miles from London’s Paddington Station, is Bath.  Take the free guided walking tour departing from the Pump Room; we had an excellent guide who toured for 2 1/2 hours but most are 2 hours.  Visited the Roman baths and Temple complex (allow ample time); Bath Abbey; and walked along the Avon River.  You may want to sample the famous buns at Sally Lunn’s (still baked to 1680 recipe and dry-looking but historically correct–pretty bad tasting, in my opinion!).   Walked along the city’s signature crescent, rimmed with handsome Georgian townhomes, starting at 1 Royal Crescent.  The Bath Museum and British Folk Art Collection are worth seeing.

Money Saving Tips: Check out the London Pass on arrival–60 attractions & transportation.  Check official ticket box office for reduced price theater tickets (located at bottom of Leicester Square).  If planning to use tube (subway), purchase Oyster Card at any tube station and pre-pay some amount; you can add money, as needed.  Pubs are everywhere, and the food is quite good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grand Week in the Texas Hill Country

Recently returned from a wonderful week in the beautiful Texas Hill Country.  Hiked around Blue Hole and Jacob’s Well–two very pretty spring-fed swimming holes but too cold to swim now–in Wimberley.

Hiked the gorgeous Westcave Preserve, a privately owned natural area in Round Mountain; the main feature is a collapsed limestone grotto that forms a canyon, with entrance to the cave in the bottom of the canyon.  The lush vegetation results in summer temps on the canyon floor being some 15 degrees cooler than on top–extremely refreshing for Texas!

Toured the awesome Canyon Lake Gorge–one mile long, hundreds of yards wide, and up to 50 feet or more deep–which was carved through limestone in 2002 when extensive flooding of the Guadalupe River led to a huge amount of water (67,000 cubic feet of water per second) going over the spillway from the Canyon Lake Reservoir.  The flooding exposed rock strata as old as 100 million years, with fossils and a set of dinosaur tracks.  Along the way, we saw a great blue heron, a roadrunner, wood ducks and a couple of fox.

We ziplined and rappelled at Cypress Valley and swam in the Pedernales River at Milton Reimer’s Ranch–now a Travis County park–where rock climbing, mountain bike trails,  an equestrian trail, and fishing are also available.

 

At the 1st Texas Olive Oil Company at Bella Vista Ranch, we learned all about hill country olive oil production and tasted several kinds–yummy!

Kayaked on Town Lake (Colorado River) in Austin, followed by a fabulous lunch at The Easy Tiger Bake Shop & Beer Garden.

Stayed at a terrific B&B in Dripping Springs, complete with an outdoor hot tub under the vibrant Texas stars.  Enjoyed two-steppin’ to Texas tunes at the Mercer Street Dance Hall, as well as Texas brews and live music at the Barber Shop Brewpub, also on Mercer Street.  Great eats were had at the Creek Road Cafe in Dripping Springs.

Made the obligatory stop at Salt Lick Barbeque in Driftwood for brisket, beer and live music under the shade trees.  Later, enjoyed tasting beers at the nearby Twisted X Brewery.

This super week was capped off by lunch on a deck overlooking Lake Austin with long-time friends.