Montenegro Highlights

Tiny, yet beautiful, Montenegro boasts a constellation of ancient towns along its meandering coast.  Budva, one of the oldest settlements in The Balkans, may be the brightest star.  The town has several beaches but the charming Stari Grad–Old Town, with its winding alleys and quaint squares–impresses visitors the most.  Budva can be an excellent base from which to explore some of Montenegro’s other gems.  A scenic drive along the Budva Riviera takes you to nearby Milocer and the charming old town-on-the-rock Sveti Stefan, a picturesque islet that has welcomed foreign dignitaries and Hollywood celebrities alike.  Milocer was built as a hideaway for the wealthy royal family during the 19th century and looks like something taken out of a fairytale.  Robert De Niro opened Nobu there in July, 2016.

Travel the very steep slopes–with several hairpin turns–while catching breathtaking views of the bay below, through the Lovcen Mountains, where you will discover delicious culinary treats and well-preserved folk architecture.  The Village of Njegusi is known for tasty smoked ham, awesome farmer’s cheese and wine–all made in the village.

 

 

 

 

The former royal capital of Cetinje, from the 15th century, is a city that once welcomed diplomats from all over Europe.  Tour the interesting Museum of King Nikola.

 

More of Montenegro’s natural beauty can be experienced on a scenic drive through Lovcen National Park.

 

The Adriatic fjord of Kotor, one of Europe’s most beautiful bays, is where the coastal town of Kotor, one of Montenegro’s most well preserved medieval towns, is found.  Walled in by the Republic of Venice centuries ago, Kotor is still surrounded by the town bulwarks–more than 3 miles of walls around the town, walls above the town and walls around the hill and fortress on top of the hill.  The 12th century Cathedral of St. Tryphon, with its exotic Romanesque architecture, is a sight to see.

 

 

 

Magnificent Maine

We spent 3 weeks driving the coast, from Kittery Point in the south to the northern Acadia National Park–did nothing inland.  Here some of the highlights we enjoyed.

At Kittery Point, just a short drive off Route 1, we had lunch at the Chauncy Creek Lobster Pier (on a tidal river), which serves only lobster and Malpeque oysters and cherrystones from Prince Edward Island–outdoor seating only and bring whatever else you want, including drinks!

 

 

York is a very historic and quaint village.  At 350 years old, it was America’s first chartered city.  You’ll find many 17th and 18th century structures, and the Old Gaol Museum is thought to be the oldest remaining public building in America.  Route 1 enters York Harbor and York Beach.  Eventually, a lane leads out over Cape Neddick toward picturesque Nubble Light–the most photographed lighthouse in the U.S.

Ogunquit is a cool little town, with lots of artists and craftsmen.  Adjoining Perkins Cove has a couple of good restaurants–MC Perkins Cove and Five-O.  A walk across New England’s only foot drawbridge provides a wonderful view of boats in the harbor, then walk the nearby Marginal Way,  a  1.5 mile cliff walk.

Old Orchard Beach is a kitschy old beach town , where families have come for generations.  With a 7-mile strip of beach, a cute boardwalk with a ferris wheel, and good New York-style pizza at Rocco’s, there is something for everyone!  After Lindburg’s flight, there were lots of flights from this beach trying to copy his transatlantic trip, and there used to be carriage races on the sand.

 

In Scarborough, we rented a canoe at the Audubon Society’s Scarborough Marsh Nature Center and paddled out on streams meandering through a salt marsh.  Next, we had a terrific lunch and drinks on the porch of the lovely Black Point Inn on the Prouts Neck Peninsula, overlooking the water.  Afterward, we walked across the lawn and took the waterside path to Winslow Homer’s studio, now a National Historic Landmark; this is the same path he walked daily to get his subjects to paint!  By making prior arrangements with the Portland Museum of Art, you can tour his studio at the end of the path–it’s very popular and books up quickly!

Portland is a fun town.   For the best view in town, we walked the Eastern Promenade, which overlooks the quirky 1807 wooden observatory atop Munjoy Hill.  At Maine’s Pantry on Commercial Street, picked up Maine maple syrup and mustard from Raye’s, the country’s last stone ground mustard mill.  On Park Street, below Spring, we saw a row of 14 brick townhouses from the 1830s, all with ironwork balconies.  The Portland Public Market is a huge international food court.  The Portland Head Light Station at Fort Williams Park was built in 1790 and is one of the oldest lighthouses in the U.S.–a nice place to have a picnic. Stroudwater, two miles west of the Old Port on Congress Street, is a colonial village from the 1700s; it was originally a mill site, then a canal depot.  We took the mailboat run to several islands, which was pretty cool–they deliver all kinds of stuff, in addition to mail, including lumber to build things.  You can bike (rentals available) or hike on Peaks Island, a 20 minute ferry trip, or Long Island, which has a protected white sand cove at Singing Sands Beach.  Favorite eateries in Portland were Zapoteca, Boda Thai, the Front Room, and Bonobo for pizza.

Don’t miss the LL Bean store in Freeport–open 24/7.  Lobster rolls abound in this state–both mayo style and butter style–but the best, in my opinion, is at Red’s Eats in Wiscasset–outdoor seating only and usually has a line.  For a quirky stop, check out the scrap sculptures by Nathan Nicholls at Recycle Art Sculptors Garden in Waldeboro–very unusual and offbeat; although Nathan Nicholls is no longer alive, his family has left the 5-acre sculpture garden for all to see.

 

 

 

Camden is the home to several windjammers. Searsport has the EXCELLENT Penobscot Marine Museum.

Acadia National Park borders Bar Harbor on 3 sides.  A horse-drawn carriage tour or wagon ride is a great way to see the 40 miles of roads and 17 picturesque stone bridges, along with lots of park history.

 

 

 

 

 

Then, drive to Thunder Hole–at high tide, the surf crashes into a natural inlet, sending water up to 40 feet high, with a roar!  Sand Beach is a popular gathering spot.  At 1530 feet, Cadillac Mountain is the highest peak around.  Hike the Beach Mountain Path on the west side of the island; from there, you have a view of Long Pond or Great Pond, and, at the peak, you have a stunning vista of Blue Hill and Cranberry Isles.  Have some yummy popovers with strawberry jam at the Jordan Pond House, overlooking the Bubble Mountains  and Jordan Pond.

The remote Isle Hauet, on the Schoodic Peninsula, is 6 miles long and 2 miles wide with 65 year round residents and less crowded paths, along with several inns.

Coastal Maine is such a fun and scenic place to visit.