The Three Hills of Granada

Granada was a Moorish kingdom in Spain from the 700s until 1492.  Granada sits on 3 hills. The pink-gold Alhambra Palace is perched atop one of the hills.

The Nasrid Palaces at the Alhambra are really beautiful.

The Albaicin, or Arabic Quarter, sits on another hill.  It is steep and cobblestoned.

 In the 1400s, it was the wealthiest and most densely populated area of Granada, boasting 30 mosques.  1980 – 1990 saw the largest increase in converts to Islam since the 1492 Catholic Reconquest, and a new mosque was opened in 2004.

 This area of the city is characterized by carmenes, typical Arab houses with enclosed gardens and containing fruit trees and fountains.

Try one of the Moroccan restaurants along the narrow streets of the Albaicin, such as Arrayanes — lavish Arabian decor with delicately spiced tagines, a stew served with couscous.  Or try bastela–golden pastry pie stuffed with shredded chicken, ground almonds and spices.  No alcohol is served but house made lemonade with mint is a refreshing substitute.  For afternoon tea, take a low table at La Teteria del Bunelo, by the Arab baths.

The last hill is Sacromonte, the Cave Quarter.  Gypsies arrived here in the late 15th century.  Marginalized from society, they made their homes outside the old city walls in the hill’s caves.

The Sacromonte Interpretative Center recreates cave life and offers some cultural performances.

Currently, 80% of the inhabitants still live in caves but homes can be, surprisingly, luxurious.  Las Cuevas El Abanico is a cave hotel, of sorts.

The majority of flamenco stars are Gypsies, so the area has capitalized on it.  For the real thing, join the locals at the smoky Eshavira Club, just off Calle Azacayas, or watch the informal flamenco jams — known as flipping –at Bar Los Faroles; there are also informal shows  at La Pena Plateria on Plaza de Toqueros.

If you are an adventurous diner, try Tortilla Sacromonte — an omelette with brains and sweetbreads!

Granada is, arguably, the single most worthwhile city in Spain for visitors.  Don’t miss it!

Cordoba, Spain

During the 10th century, Cordoba was the greatest capital city in Europe, surpassing Paris & Rome in its academic, architectural and artistic achievements.

The Roman Bridge of Cordoba, in the historic center of the city, was originally built in the early 1st Century BC.  Later, a Moorish bridge was built on the foundations of the Roman bridge.  It is a 16 arched bridge that spans the Guadalquivir River.

There are three major faiths represented in Cordoba.

La Mezquita, the UNESCO-listed mosque, is one of the most striking monuments of Moorish Spain.  It was built in the 8th century for the Caliphate of Cordoba.  It is an ornate, Moorish style place of Islamic worship with  a hall of 856 columns and awe-inspiring arched red and white pillars.

In 1523, it was converted to a Catholic cathedral; the sanctuary was dropped right into the mosque’s center, while maintaining the basic framework of the Islamic architecture.  It is truly fascinating!

The barrios to the east of the Mezquita contain many houses of bullfighters.

The Juderia–old Jewish Quarter–is a charming labyrinth of narrow, winding streets,

 

quiet squares

 

 

and colorful, flower-adorned windows and patios.

 

The Calleja de las Flores–Alley of Flowers– is one of the most famous tourist attractions in the Quarter.

 

 

The Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos, also known as the Alcazar of Cordoba, is a medieval palace in the historic center of Cordoba.  The fortress served as the primary residence  of Isabella I of Castille and Ferdinand II of Aragon.

Cordoba is a really historic city that is well worth a visit!

Seville

Seville is one of Andalusia’s historic capitals, located about 340 miles southwest of Madrid.  The historic center, anchored by the medieval Barrio de Santa Cruz — the old Jewish quarter — is easily walkable.

The one city landmark that is impossible to miss is the Cathedral, which was started in 1402 on the site of a Moorish mosque.  It grew to be one of the largest Gothic buildings in the world and one of the tallest cathedrals in Spain.

Climb the stone ramps of the cathedral’s Giralda tower, once the former mosque’s minaret.  From the top, you can see out over the lush gardens of the Alcazar Palace and the maze of narrow Santa Cruz streets.

Le Sacre Coeur

 

Paris has so many great sites to see and things to do!  Le Sacre Coeur—or The Sacred Heart–is one of my favorites.  Others agree, for it is the second most visited church behind Notre Dame.

The Basilica of the Sacre Coeur de Montmartre is located on the north side of the city, in Montmartre.

A nearby church was built before the arrival of the Roman Empire.  The current basilica was built in 1872.  People were worried about the conservative government so there was a 4 month uprising–a revolution.  It culminated with The Paris Commune, a very bloody week.  In celebration, a church was built where the fighting began.  Though not as ancient or impressive as Notre Dame, it is beautiful, with mosaics on the ceiling.  It has the largest bell in France, a gift from La Savoie, in the Alps, in 1880.

White towers dominate the lower houses and look down on the River Seine.  From the steps, you have a nice view of the Eiffel Tower and the entire city.

You can either walk the steps up to the basilica or take a funicular, which has 2 million passengers per year.

The area around the basilica is lovely–gardens, hidden stairways, old houses, musicians, flowers and cafes abound, even a vineyard.  Montmartre used to be a small village for impoverished artists; it is pricey now and very well known.  “La Boheme” is about Montmartre.    Picasso and other artists hung out at Le Chat Noir.  The restaurant Le Moulin de la Galette is depicted in many paintings.

A massively touristic attraction in an iconic neighborhood with a terrific view and lots of history, Le Sacre Coeur–the church on the hill–is a must see when you are in Paris!

A Day in Fabulous Las Vegas

Las Vegas is a terrific destination for a day trip.  We flew out early in the morning and returned to Dallas that same evening.  Although we weren’t able to see a show, we walked the length of the Las Vegas Strip on both sides of the street, enjoying sightseeing, shopping, gambling in several of the casinos and had a wonderful lunch.

The Paris Hotel and Casino features the Eiffel Tower Restaurant–looks just like the real monument!

At the Venetian, you can take a gondola ride and see a life-like replica tower of St. Mark’s Campanile in Venice, Italy.

The New York New York Hotel has a full scale replica of the Statue of Liberty, complete with the New York skyline behind it.

The display over the entry to Harrah’s is a sight to behold!

 

Caesars Palace contains a shopping mall known as “The Forum”.  It contains many replicas of Italy’s famous fountains as well as a number of Roman statues imported from Florence, including Julius Caesar, Augustus and Nero.  The ceiling is painted blue with white clouds.  We enjoyed a delicious lunch at Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill, featuring southwestern cuisine–the chef’s first restaurant outside of New York

 

 

 

Bellagio’s fountain-fronted property is reminiscent of an elegant European resort.  The hotel’s Conservatory and Botanical Gardens switch out its gorgeous flower-filled displays five times per year.  Because we were visiting in December, we saw its exquisite Christmas display.

 

 

 

 

At the southern end of the Strip, you will find the Luxor, named after the city of the same name in Egypt.  One of the hotel’s most distinguishing elements is the replica of the Great Sphinx of Giza, flanked by two pyramids.  This Sphinx is two stories taller than the original.

 

 

The iconic “Welcome to Las Vegas” sign was erected around 1959-60.  The sign is located in the median of Las Vegas Boulevard South–most consider it the official southern end of the Las Vegas Strip (actually sits in the town of Paradise).  Because so many people make the pilgrimage to view the sign, there is a parking lot with free parking at the site. However, it is easy  to reach on foot if you are walking the Strip.  An unofficial line forms for folks to snap pics of themselves with the sign.  Though the line can be quite long, everyone patiently awaits his turn.  There are even a couple of unofficial photographers who will photograph you with your camera, for a fee, if you are shy about asking the person in line next to you to do it.

San Antonio

San Antonio is known as “The Alamo City”.  No first trip to San Antonio is complete without seeing this piece of history.  Remember, though, that the Alamo is one of five missions.  You can drive the Mission Trail Parkway that connects these historic structures, which include Mission Concepcion, Mission San Jose, Mission San Juan, and Mission Espada–or rent bikes to ride the route.  Admission for all five is free.

 

 

 

San Antonio is also known as “The River City”.  Strolling the River Walk (aka Paseo del Rio) is a must do adventure every trip.  The River Walk is a series of walkways along the banks of the San Antonio River, one story beneath the streets of the city.  Lined by bars, shops, restaurants, historic neighborhoods, nature and public art, the River Walk has been described as “The American Venice”, and it’s easy to see why.  If you can conceive of a place where the sights, sounds, and flavors of Native America, Old Mexico and the Wild West blend with the bustle of a modern city, it might look a lot like the San Antonio River Walk.  River boats and river taxis glide along the water, passing colorful umbrellas on patios along the way.  Stop in at Boudro’s or Casa Rio for great dining!

Through the years, the River Walk has been expanded from its original form to include the Museum Reach and the Mission Reach.  The Mission Reach includes biking and paddling trails–bikes and kayaks can be rented.  The Museum Reach features the San Antonio Museum of Art and the renovated Pearl Brewery–stop by the Hotel Emma’s restaurant for tasty snapper throats.

The River Walk was recently connected with another urban walkway, the San Pedro Creek Greenway.

Head up to the street level and visit Paris Hatters.  Although hats will cost you a good bit of money, browsing is free and fun.  Since 1917, this shop has covered the heads of Pope John Paul II, Prince Charles, and B. B. King, among a host of other well known folks.  Have breakfast at Schilo’s German Deli.

 

Near downtown, the historic Market Square is a pedestrian area encompassing three city blocks, bounded by Dolorosa, Santa Rosa, and West Commerce Streets.  El Mercado is patterned after an authentic Mexican market, with stalls offering all kinds of items–described as the largest Mexican market outside of Mexico.  Mi Tierra and La Margarita serve delicious Tex Mex cuisine.

San Antonio has several terrific museums.  My favorites include the following.  The fabulous Institute of Texan Cultures showcases the history of the area, which includes Mexican, Spanish, German, Irish, and other diverse cultural backgrounds.  The McNay has one of the most impressive collections of art around.  The Witte features features science and natural history as well as the best early Texas art collection in the state.  The Briscoe Western Art Museum is also wonderful.  The Blue Star Contemporary hosts over 20 exhibitions each year.

San Antonio is such an awesome city and well worth a visit.

My Favorite Greek Isle

Mykonos may be one of the smallest of the Greek isles but its legends are larger than life.  According to Greek mythology, it was here that Hercules slew the giants.

Mykonos is my favorite Greek Island.  It is a cosmopolitan island with magnificent beaches, which draw masses of tourists each year to its clear blue waters and seaside tavernas.  Chic and stylish beaches include Agios Ioannis and Ornos, located in the southwest corner of the island.

The island village of Ano Mera houses the 16th century Panagia Tourliani Monastery.  The ornate monastery has post-Byzantine icons and an impressive marble tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The peaceful town square is the perfect spot for a Greek appetizer and a glass of ouzo, the anise-flavored apertif.

Mykonos Town has winding alleys and whitewashed houses.  It’s a terrific place to just get lost, traversing those alleys.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The patio of Familia Taverna is a pretty and tasty location for lunch.

Little Venice has houses literally suspended over the sea.

The Sun Set is a wonderful place to have mussels swimming in tomato sauce, along with a Greek beer; the island is known for its delicious tomatoes.

A series of snow-white windmills remind me of The Man of La Mancha.  Only one works these days but they look cool!

This island is not to be missed!

A French Wonder

Mont-Saint-Michel, one of France’s most recognizable landmarks, is visited by more than 3 million people each year.  The giant rock standing strong in the middle of the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay is a sight to behold!

 

It’s not just a church on a rock; it’s a whole medieval city between the ramparts, with steep, cobblestone streets.  It used to be a center of pilgrimage for medieval travelers.  It was also a great fortress during the Middle Ages and once served as a prison.  It was even a battlefield during the Hundred Years War.  The Monks were expelled during the French Revolution and didn’t return until the 19th Century.  It was one of the first monuments to be classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This remarkable medieval walled city, crowned by its great Gothic abbey, is surrounded by sand and sea.  At low tide, it’s a tidal island, surrounded by sand.  As the high tide slowly rolls in, it becomes an island.  The tides can vary greatly, sometimes 46 feet between high and low water marks, making it quite dangerous to walk the flats.  You can, however, take a tour, with an officially trained guide, on foot or on horseback.

The salt marsh meadows that have resulted from flooding are ideal for raising sheep, and you will see many grazing the area.

There is now a bridge, linking Mont-Saint-Michel to the mainland.  You can either take a short walk or ride an official bus to reach it.

Mont-Saint-Michel is a great place to visit–don’t miss it!

 

 

Montenegro Highlights

Tiny, yet beautiful, Montenegro boasts a constellation of ancient towns along its meandering coast.  Budva, one of the oldest settlements in The Balkans, may be the brightest star.  The town has several beaches but the charming Stari Grad–Old Town, with its winding alleys and quaint squares–impresses visitors the most.  Budva can be an excellent base from which to explore some of Montenegro’s other gems.  A scenic drive along the Budva Riviera takes you to nearby Milocer and the charming old town-on-the-rock Sveti Stefan, a picturesque islet that has welcomed foreign dignitaries and Hollywood celebrities alike.  Milocer was built as a hideaway for the wealthy royal family during the 19th century and looks like something taken out of a fairytale.  Robert De Niro opened Nobu there in July, 2016.

Travel the very steep slopes–with several hairpin turns–while catching breathtaking views of the bay below, through the Lovcen Mountains, where you will discover delicious culinary treats and well-preserved folk architecture.  The Village of Njegusi is known for tasty smoked ham, awesome farmer’s cheese and wine–all made in the village.

 

 

 

 

The former royal capital of Cetinje, from the 15th century, is a city that once welcomed diplomats from all over Europe.  Tour the interesting Museum of King Nikola.

 

More of Montenegro’s natural beauty can be experienced on a scenic drive through Lovcen National Park.

 

The Adriatic fjord of Kotor, one of Europe’s most beautiful bays, is where the coastal town of Kotor, one of Montenegro’s most well preserved medieval towns, is found.  Walled in by the Republic of Venice centuries ago, Kotor is still surrounded by the town bulwarks–more than 3 miles of walls around the town, walls above the town and walls around the hill and fortress on top of the hill.  The 12th century Cathedral of St. Tryphon, with its exotic Romanesque architecture, is a sight to see.

 

 

 

Magnificent Maine

We spent 3 weeks driving the coast, from Kittery Point in the south to the northern Acadia National Park–did nothing inland.  Here some of the highlights we enjoyed.

At Kittery Point, just a short drive off Route 1, we had lunch at the Chauncy Creek Lobster Pier (on a tidal river), which serves only lobster and Malpeque oysters and cherrystones from Prince Edward Island–outdoor seating only and bring whatever else you want, including drinks!

 

 

York is a very historic and quaint village.  At 350 years old, it was America’s first chartered city.  You’ll find many 17th and 18th century structures, and the Old Gaol Museum is thought to be the oldest remaining public building in America.  Route 1 enters York Harbor and York Beach.  Eventually, a lane leads out over Cape Neddick toward picturesque Nubble Light–the most photographed lighthouse in the U.S.

Ogunquit is a cool little town, with lots of artists and craftsmen.  Adjoining Perkins Cove has a couple of good restaurants–MC Perkins Cove and Five-O.  A walk across New England’s only foot drawbridge provides a wonderful view of boats in the harbor, then walk the nearby Marginal Way,  a  1.5 mile cliff walk.

Old Orchard Beach is a kitschy old beach town , where families have come for generations.  With a 7-mile strip of beach, a cute boardwalk with a ferris wheel, and good New York-style pizza at Rocco’s, there is something for everyone!  After Lindburg’s flight, there were lots of flights from this beach trying to copy his transatlantic trip, and there used to be carriage races on the sand.

 

In Scarborough, we rented a canoe at the Audubon Society’s Scarborough Marsh Nature Center and paddled out on streams meandering through a salt marsh.  Next, we had a terrific lunch and drinks on the porch of the lovely Black Point Inn on the Prouts Neck Peninsula, overlooking the water.  Afterward, we walked across the lawn and took the waterside path to Winslow Homer’s studio, now a National Historic Landmark; this is the same path he walked daily to get his subjects to paint!  By making prior arrangements with the Portland Museum of Art, you can tour his studio at the end of the path–it’s very popular and books up quickly!

Portland is a fun town.   For the best view in town, we walked the Eastern Promenade, which overlooks the quirky 1807 wooden observatory atop Munjoy Hill.  At Maine’s Pantry on Commercial Street, picked up Maine maple syrup and mustard from Raye’s, the country’s last stone ground mustard mill.  On Park Street, below Spring, we saw a row of 14 brick townhouses from the 1830s, all with ironwork balconies.  The Portland Public Market is a huge international food court.  The Portland Head Light Station at Fort Williams Park was built in 1790 and is one of the oldest lighthouses in the U.S.–a nice place to have a picnic. Stroudwater, two miles west of the Old Port on Congress Street, is a colonial village from the 1700s; it was originally a mill site, then a canal depot.  We took the mailboat run to several islands, which was pretty cool–they deliver all kinds of stuff, in addition to mail, including lumber to build things.  You can bike (rentals available) or hike on Peaks Island, a 20 minute ferry trip, or Long Island, which has a protected white sand cove at Singing Sands Beach.  Favorite eateries in Portland were Zapoteca, Boda Thai, the Front Room, and Bonobo for pizza.

Don’t miss the LL Bean store in Freeport–open 24/7.  Lobster rolls abound in this state–both mayo style and butter style–but the best, in my opinion, is at Red’s Eats in Wiscasset–outdoor seating only and usually has a line.  For a quirky stop, check out the scrap sculptures by Nathan Nicholls at Recycle Art Sculptors Garden in Waldeboro–very unusual and offbeat; although Nathan Nicholls is no longer alive, his family has left the 5-acre sculpture garden for all to see.

 

 

 

Camden is the home to several windjammers. Searsport has the EXCELLENT Penobscot Marine Museum.

Acadia National Park borders Bar Harbor on 3 sides.  A horse-drawn carriage tour or wagon ride is a great way to see the 40 miles of roads and 17 picturesque stone bridges, along with lots of park history.

 

 

 

 

 

Then, drive to Thunder Hole–at high tide, the surf crashes into a natural inlet, sending water up to 40 feet high, with a roar!  Sand Beach is a popular gathering spot.  At 1530 feet, Cadillac Mountain is the highest peak around.  Hike the Beach Mountain Path on the west side of the island; from there, you have a view of Long Pond or Great Pond, and, at the peak, you have a stunning vista of Blue Hill and Cranberry Isles.  Have some yummy popovers with strawberry jam at the Jordan Pond House, overlooking the Bubble Mountains  and Jordan Pond.

The remote Isle Hauet, on the Schoodic Peninsula, is 6 miles long and 2 miles wide with 65 year round residents and less crowded paths, along with several inns.

Coastal Maine is such a fun and scenic place to visit.